Montmartre in Paris

Cas Wolters on an exploration journey

You might remember Cas Wolters from 'Heel Holland Bakt' (the Dutch version of the Great British Bake Off). Or from the travel reports he previously made in Paris where he recommended the finest patissiers and macarons.
This time, he's going to explore the district of Montmartre in a day. We asked him about his experiences and he's eager to share his tips.
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Why the district of Montmartre

"Most people know the district for the Sacré-Cœur or the Moulin Rouge," says Cas, "but there is much more to the area and there is a lot of beauty and deliciousness to discover. A part of Paris was demolished and rebuilt at the end of the 19th century. The Montmartre district was spared, and here you find narrow streets and a different architectural style than in the rest of Paris. In the past, there were mills and fields here. Perhaps that was the basis for all the delightful bakeries in this neighbourhood.

Vincent and Theo van Gogh lived here, and you see many mills in his paintings. Through these paintings, you can see how the landscape has changed over time."
Address of Vincent and Theo van Gogh's house: 54 Rue Lepic

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Culinary Montmartre

Cas' passion for patisserie and baking truly shines in Montmartre. He speaks enthusiastically about a small patisserie by Gilles Marchal where he tasted traditional Madeleines. These are shell-shaped cookies, the tastiest in Paris. The aroma of these freshly baked madeleines alone makes it worthwhile. The cookies originally come from the south of France. "This patisserie offers various types of Madeleines, from chocolate to raspberry, all equally delightful," says Cas.
Pâtisserie Gilles Marchal, address: 9 Rue Ravignan

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On Rue des Abbesses, you'll find a plethora of delightful establishments. Shops filled with hundreds of types of cheeses, wines, and chocolates. Cas recounts his visit to the chocolaterie Alain Ducasse, where they approach you kindly and ask if you'd like to taste a chocolate. "Each one was more divine than the last. And after we had tasted everything, she brought out pralinés... I found the people there very warm too. It didn't feel like a touristy street to me. There really was quality on offer in that street."
Alain Ducasse, address: 34 Rue des Abbesses

And then you must also eat snails

"In that street, there was also a fish shop that sold snails alongside fish. Snails belong to Paris and Parisians. I love to challenge myself and taste such things. As a culinary expert, you ought to be able to say something about them. I asked the fishmonger how to prepare them. He explained that he mixes butter with parsley, adds salt and pepper, and stuffs that into the snail. Then, he bakes them in the oven at 210 degrees and serves them on a small dish.

Afterwards, I went to a restaurant where they served six snails which we shared among three of us. With a lovely little tongs and a small fork, you tease it out. Biting into a snail is more satisfying than an oyster. The texture is somewhat like chicken. But after those two snails, I thought: I've tried it, two is enough."

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Coffee and croissant at Boris Boulangerie

"Here you'll find the best almond croissants in Paris," Cas explains. The boulangerie has several locations and also offers delicious, savory sandwiches and quiches. Perfect for taking along on a walk or for enjoying quietly with a cup of coffee.
Boris Boulangerie, address: 48 Rue Caulaincourt

Dining at the Moulin de la Galette

The Moulin de la Galette has a tumultuous history. It's a windmill from the 17th century that was originally situated on a higher point in the district. In 1924, the mill was moved to the street where Van Gogh once lived. A dance hall was added next to the mill, which features in paintings by Renoir, Van Gogh, Israels, and Toulouse-Lautrec.

ENow, there is a charming bistro where delicious food is served by friendly staff.
Address: 83 Rue Lepic

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Going to a show at the Moulin Rouge

When thinking of mills in Montmartre, most people envision the red windmill, the Moulin Rouge. Cas admits he was hesitant to go to a show there as he doubted whether it would be his cup of tea. But after his visit, he would recommend it to everyone! "The building is very beautiful. Everyone sits at little tables, and it's packed. It was like a circus performance without animals, with beautiful costumes. Lots of feathers, lots of show. Cheerful, catchy music. There was even a sort of ballet show in a water basin. All very beautiful and well put together."

Cocktail Bar in the Cold Room

Cas eagerly shares a tip about Moonshiner. In the pizzeria Da Vito, at the back, you'll find a door leading to a cold room. Inside is Moonshiner, a bar that echoes the ambiance of 1920s New York. Jazz music, leather sofas, record players, and cocktails create a delightful mix.
Address: 5 Rue Sedaine

Sacré-Cœur, a basilica in Montmartre

The Sacré-Cœur is quite a new church compared to others in the city, having been completed only in 1914. The large, white basilica sits atop the hill, offering a beautiful view of the city from its steps.
You can visit the church during the day, but what few people know is that you can also stay overnight. Cas explains, "It's sort of like a hostel. You're picked up at night, all in silence. You have to walk through the church. The church is also completely dark at that time and everything sounds a bit like a horror movie. You must pray in silence for an hour and then return to your room in silence and go back to sleep. I haven't tried it myself."

You can join the prayer service starting at 11:00 PM and sleep afterwards in a dormitory or a private room, depending on what is available. You need to book this in advance.

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Travel to Paris with Eurostar

Eurostar runs 10 times a day directly from Amsterdam, Schiphol, and Rotterdam to Paris, and back again. Book early and you can travel at a great price! If the travel date doesn’t work out, you can change the date up until the day of departure.

Treat yourself to a midweek break or a weekend in Paris! Visit Montmartre or the other neighborhoods in the city. There's plenty to do and see, in all seasons.
Learn more about travelling affordably by train

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Montmartre in Paris

Macarons in Paris

Cas Wolters takes you to Paris and shares his knowledge of macarons. Discover its history as well as the places where you can buy them in Paris.

Montmartre in Paris